Lhotse Expedition – 8,516m

  • 12 April – 07 June 2012 (57 Days)
  • € 19,500

Our Lhotse expedition uses the same logistical support for the trek and acclimatization on Lobuche as our Everest Members. This expedition is designed for experienced expeditioners who have previously climbed Everest. As the couloir is very narrow and has rock fall danger, we only accept a very small number (maximum 8 Members) on the route.

Himalayan Experience is concerned by the unstable nature of the Khumbu Icefall so we intend to have Members and Sherpas travel through this area as little as possible. Himalayan Experience Members will spend more time on Lobuche and surrounding peaks during the acclimatisation, so as to avoid at least one trip through the Icefall for Members, and several trips for the Sherpa Staff. The traditional Everest/Lhotse Base Camp is crowded and is on active ice that moves and melts around the tents during the course of the expedition. Himalayan Experience will camp further down the valley, closer to Pumori where there is more sun and the ice does not move, so that our Sherpa staff will not have to spend so much time maintaining our Base Camp infrastructure, and we will be less crowded.

Members will be encouraged to use both the Everest/Lhotse and Lobuche Base Camps in order to do long strenuous day and camping trips on surrounding peaks before the first acclimatisation trip through the icefall.

The first trip into the Western Cwm will be directly to Camp 2 (6,400m) where members will spend 2 nights before continuing up to Camp 3 (7,200m) on the Lhotse Face. We will spend one night here before descending back down to Camp 2 for another night. The following day we will return to Base Camp.

There will be practice ladders at Base Camp so that Members will have the chance to become familiar with how to walk across these before travelling through the Icefall for the first time. Himalayan Experience will place an emergency tent and equipment at Camp 1 at the top of the Icefall. However this camp has an inherent avalanche danger, so members are not encouraged to stay in this camp.
Starting from C3 on the Lhotse face, the route follows the normal Everest trail up to the traverse over to the Yellow Band. Beyond the Yellow Band and close to the Base of the Geneva Spur, Lhotse climbers make a sharp right turn, taking them directly up a steep slope to Lhotse C4. Tent spaces are cut out of this slope just beneath and to the right side of the Lhotse couloir.

Climbers depart from Lhotse C4 in the dark, crossing an open area before entering the Lhotse couloir. The Lhotse couloir is approximately 600 metres, of mostly consistent 50 to 60 degree snow slope. The couloir varies in width, but is generally narrow. Several short sections are steep, involving rock scrambling. The couloir is well-protected, with stellar views of the SE ridge of Everest. At the top left of the couloir, you reach the summit block which is a steep section of rock climbing that tops out on the tiny summit where there is a large cornice. From the summit you have a unique and unparalleled view of Mt. Everest and its surrounding peaks.

On the descent, there is a series of abseils, before arm-wrapping back into C4. Then you follow the normal fixed line traverse on the standard Everest Route back to C3. The summit program will be dependent upon weather and snow conditions, but in general will be a single push on 7 consecutive days from Base Camp as follows:
Base Camp – Camp 2 - Camp 3: Camp 4 – Summit – Camp 4: Camp 4 – Camp 2: Camp 2 – Base Camp.

There is a danger in landing helicopters at altitude, however now with better quality equipment operating in Nepal it is possible to fly directly from Base Camp to Lukla or even directly to Kathmandu. Himalayan Experience will pay for the normal trekking trip to Lukla and flight out. Those wanting to use helicopters will need to pay themselves.

12  Apr        Arrive Kathmandu 1317m
13  Apr        Kathmandu
14  Apr        Kathmandu – Lukla 2840m – Monjo 2835m
15  Apr        Monjo – Namche Bazar 3440m
16  Apr        Namche Bazar – Khumjung 3780m
17  Apr        Khumjung
18  Apr        Khumjung – Phortse 3810m
19  Apr        Phortse – Pheriche 4240m
20  Apr        Pheriche
21  Apr        Pheriche – Lobuche BC 4910m
22  Apr        Lobuche BC
23  Apr        Lobuche BC – Everest BC 5267m
24  Apr        Everest BC
25  Apr        Everest BC
26  Apr        Everest BC
27  Apr        Everest BC            
28  Apr        Everest BC – Lobuche BC
29  Apr        Lobuche BC – Camp 1 5290m
30  Apr        Camp 1 – East Summit 6119m – Lobuche BC
01  May       Lobuche BC
02  May       Lobuche BC – Summit Camp 6119m
03  May       Summit Camp – Central Summit 6135m – Summit Camp
04  May       Summit Camp – Lobuche BC
05  May       Lobuche BC – Everest BC
06  May       Everest BC
07  May       Everest BC
08  May       Everest BC Camp 2
09  May       Camp 2
10  May       Camp 2
11  May       Camp 2 – Camp 3
12  May       Camp 3 – Camp 2
13  May       Camp 2 – Everest BC
14  May       Everest BC        

01  Jun       Everest BC
02  Jun       Everest BC – Pheriche
03  Jun       Pheriche – Namche Bazar
04  Jun       Namche Bazar – Lukla
05  Jun       Lukla – Kathmandu
06  Jun       Kathmandu
07  Jun       Depart Kathmandu

 

PRIMARY ESSENTIALS
Passport Checked
Money, Travellers Cheques, Credit Cards Checked
Personal Travel Insurance Checked
   
CLOTHING
Casual clothing for travel and Kathmandu Checked
Swimming gear Checked
Polypropylene Shirt 2
Lightweight Shirt 2
Heavyweight Shirt 1
Fleece Jacket 1
Wind Jacket 1
Down Suit Checked
Down Jacket (lightweight) 1
Down Pants (lightweight) 1
Lightweight Trousers 1
Heavyweight Trousers 1
Fleece Trousers or Salopettes 1
Wind Pants 1
Polypropylene Long Johns 2
Underwear 6
Shorts 1
Lightweight Gloves 2
Heavy Mitts 1
Down Mitts 1
Ski Gloves 1
Sun Hat 1
Warm Hat 1
Headband 1
Lightweight Walking Socks 4
Climbing Socks 6

 

SLEEPING
Sleeping Bag (minus 20 C) 1
Thermarest 1

 

FOOTWEAR
Climbing Boots (Millet / Sportiva) 1
Plastic / Leather Climbing Boots 1
Trekking Boots 1
Gaiters 1

 

EQUIPMENT
Harness 1
Plain Karabiner(s) 2
Screw Lock Karabiners 2
Descender 1
Ascender 1
Tape Slings 2
Set Prussic Loops 1
Ice Axe 1
Retractable Poles 2
Crampons 1
Helmet 1
Head Lamp, Spare Bulbs, Batteries 1
Pocket Knife 1
Sunglasses 1
Goggles 1
Water Bottle 2
Pee Bottle 1
Large Pack  50-60 lt 1
Day Pack  30-35 lt 1
AA Batteries 6
Avalanche Transceiver 1
Kit Bag 1

 

PERSONAL
Sun & Lip Creams 2
Personal First Aid Kit 1
Repair Kit 1
Reading Material Checked
Diary & Writing Material Checked
Camera/Video Checked
Personal Toilet Equipment Checked