Lhotse Expedition – 8,516m
Our Lhotse expedition uses the same logistical support for the trek and acclimatization on Lobuche as our Everest Members. This expedition is designed for experienced expeditioners who have previously climbed Everest. As the couloir is very narrow and has rock fall danger, we only accept a very small number (maximum 8 Members) on the route.
Himalayan Experience is concerned by the unstable nature of the Khumbu Icefall so we intend to have Members and Sherpas travel through this area as little as possible. Himalayan Experience Members will spend more time on Lobuche and surrounding peaks during the acclimatisation, so as to avoid at least one trip through the Icefall for Members, and several trips for the Sherpa Staff. The traditional Everest/Lhotse Base Camp is crowded and is on active ice that moves and melts around the tents during the course of the expedition. Himalayan Experience will camp further down the valley, closer to Pumori where there is more sun and the ice does not move, so that our Sherpa staff will not have to spend so much time maintaining our Base Camp infrastructure, and we will be less crowded.
Members will be encouraged to use both the Everest/Lhotse and Lobuche Base Camps in order to do long strenuous day and camping trips on surrounding peaks before the first acclimatisation trip through the icefall.
The first trip into the Western Cwm will be directly to Camp 2 (6,400m) where members will spend 2 nights before continuing up to Camp 3 (7,200m) on the Lhotse Face. We will spend one night here before descending back down to Camp 2 for another night. The following day we will return to Base Camp.
There will be practice ladders at Base Camp so that Members will have the chance to become familiar with how to walk across these before travelling through the Icefall for the first time. Himalayan Experience will place an emergency tent and equipment at Camp 1 at the top of the Icefall. However this camp has an inherent avalanche danger, so members are not encouraged to stay in this camp.
Starting from C3 on the Lhotse face, the route follows the normal Everest trail up to the traverse over to the Yellow Band. Beyond the Yellow Band and close to the Base of the Geneva Spur, Lhotse climbers make a sharp right turn, taking them directly up a steep slope to Lhotse C4. Tent spaces are cut out of this slope just beneath and to the right side of the Lhotse couloir.
Climbers depart from Lhotse C4 in the dark, crossing an open area before entering the Lhotse couloir. The Lhotse couloir is approximately 600 metres, of mostly consistent 50 to 60 degree snow slope. The couloir varies in width, but is generally narrow. Several short sections are steep, involving rock scrambling. The couloir is well-protected, with stellar views of the SE ridge of Everest. At the top left of the couloir, you reach the summit block which is a steep section of rock climbing that tops out on the tiny summit where there is a large cornice. From the summit you have a unique and unparalleled view of Mt. Everest and its surrounding peaks.
On the descent, there is a series of abseils, before arm-wrapping back into C4. Then you follow the normal fixed line traverse on the standard Everest Route back to C3. The summit program will be dependent upon weather and snow conditions, but in general will be a single push on 7 consecutive days from Base Camp as follows:
Base Camp – Camp 2 - Camp 3: Camp 4 – Summit – Camp 4: Camp 4 – Camp 2: Camp 2 – Base Camp.
There is a danger in landing helicopters at altitude, however now with better quality equipment operating in Nepal it is possible to fly directly from Base Camp to Lukla or even directly to Kathmandu. Himalayan Experience will pay for the normal trekking trip to Lukla and flight out. Those wanting to use helicopters will need to pay themselves.
12 Apr Arrive Kathmandu 1317m
13 Apr Kathmandu
14 Apr Kathmandu – Lukla 2840m – Monjo 2835m
15 Apr Monjo – Namche Bazar 3440m
16 Apr Namche Bazar – Khumjung 3780m
17 Apr Khumjung
18 Apr Khumjung – Phortse 3810m
19 Apr Phortse – Pheriche 4240m
20 Apr Pheriche
21 Apr Pheriche – Lobuche BC 4910m
22 Apr Lobuche BC
23 Apr Lobuche BC – Everest BC 5267m
24 Apr Everest BC
25 Apr Everest BC
26 Apr Everest BC
27 Apr Everest BC
28 Apr Everest BC – Lobuche BC
29 Apr Lobuche BC – Camp 1 5290m
30 Apr Camp 1 – East Summit 6119m – Lobuche BC
01 May Lobuche BC
02 May Lobuche BC – Summit Camp 6119m
03 May Summit Camp – Central Summit 6135m – Summit Camp
04 May Summit Camp – Lobuche BC
05 May Lobuche BC – Everest BC
06 May Everest BC
07 May Everest BC
08 May Everest BC Camp 2
09 May Camp 2
10 May Camp 2
11 May Camp 2 – Camp 3
12 May Camp 3 – Camp 2
13 May Camp 2 – Everest BC
14 May Everest BC
01 Jun Everest BC
02 Jun Everest BC – Pheriche
03 Jun Pheriche – Namche Bazar
04 Jun Namche Bazar – Lukla
05 Jun Lukla – Kathmandu
06 Jun Kathmandu
07 Jun Depart Kathmandu
| PRIMARY ESSENTIALS | |
| Passport |
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| Money, Travellers Cheques, Credit Cards |
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| Personal Travel Insurance |
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| CLOTHING | |
| Casual clothing for travel and Kathmandu |
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| Swimming gear |
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| Polypropylene Shirt | 2 |
| Lightweight Shirt | 2 |
| Heavyweight Shirt | 1 |
| Fleece Jacket | 1 |
| Wind Jacket | 1 |
| Down Suit |
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| Down Jacket (lightweight) | 1 |
| Down Pants (lightweight) | 1 |
| Lightweight Trousers | 1 |
| Heavyweight Trousers | 1 |
| Fleece Trousers or Salopettes | 1 |
| Wind Pants | 1 |
| Polypropylene Long Johns | 2 |
| Underwear | 6 |
| Shorts | 1 |
| Lightweight Gloves | 2 |
| Heavy Mitts | 1 |
| Down Mitts | 1 |
| Ski Gloves | 1 |
| Sun Hat | 1 |
| Warm Hat | 1 |
| Headband | 1 |
| Lightweight Walking Socks | 4 |
| Climbing Socks | 6 |
| SLEEPING | |
| Sleeping Bag (minus 20 C) | 1 |
| Thermarest | 1 |
| FOOTWEAR | |
| Climbing Boots (Millet / Sportiva) | 1 |
| Plastic / Leather Climbing Boots | 1 |
| Trekking Boots | 1 |
| Gaiters | 1 |
| EQUIPMENT | |
| Harness | 1 |
| Plain Karabiner(s) | 2 |
| Screw Lock Karabiners | 2 |
| Descender | 1 |
| Ascender | 1 |
| Tape Slings | 2 |
| Set Prussic Loops | 1 |
| Ice Axe | 1 |
| Retractable Poles | 2 |
| Crampons | 1 |
| Helmet | 1 |
| Head Lamp, Spare Bulbs, Batteries | 1 |
| Pocket Knife | 1 |
| Sunglasses | 1 |
| Goggles | 1 |
| Water Bottle | 2 |
| Pee Bottle | 1 |
| Large Pack 50-60 lt | 1 |
| Day Pack 30-35 lt | 1 |
| AA Batteries | 6 |
| Avalanche Transceiver | 1 |
| Kit Bag | 1 |
| PERSONAL | |
| Sun & Lip Creams | 2 |
| Personal First Aid Kit | 1 |
| Repair Kit | 1 |
| Reading Material |
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| Diary & Writing Material |
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| Camera/Video |
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| Personal Toilet Equipment |
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